Pura Besakih is the largest and holiest Hindu site in Bali. It isn't one temple but a whole cluster of them, more than twenty in total, with Pura Penataran Agung at the centre and the rest running off along the terraces above and below. Every region of Bali has a claim on the place, which is why it draws worshippers from the whole island rather than just the village below. When Mount Agung erupted in 1963 the lava came down either side but avoided the temples completely. The composition most people are aiming for is taken from the foot of the main stairway, looking up through the split gate with the mountain behind. Getting Mount Agung into that shot can be tricky since clouds usually hide the summit by mid morning. If that is the shoot you are hoping for it is best to be there right when it opens. That gives you a couple of hours to experiment with your composition before both the tour buses and clouds arrive. After that shot is checked off you can take your time and explore the whole sanctuary. Tiered black thatch roofs stack against the sky, gateways repeat one behind another up the slope, and the terracing gives you height to shoot down across the whole area. There's plenty at close range too: carved stone, offerings left on the steps, cloth wrapped around the shrines. There is an entry fee for foreign visitors, and the ticket covers a sarong and a local guide who stays with you throughout the sacred areas. Inner courtyards are only for worshippers, so you'll have to shoot from the steps and the gateways rather than inside. Big ceremonies fill the place with both extra worshippers and extra tourists, and bring extra rules. It's best check their schedule while planning your photo adventure. It's a long drive from the south of the island, so build a day around east Bali rather than coming out just for this. (Besakih, Karangasem, Bali, Indonesia)
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