Métro to Charles de Gaulle–Étoile on lines 1, 2 and 6, or RER A. Never cross the roundabout on foot. The pedestrian underpass starts on the Champs-Élysées side, at the top of the avenue on the north side, and comes up under the arch. Walking the outer ring of the Place de l’Étoile is the way to work the angles; every avenue mouth is a new viewpoint.
Late afternoon into blue hour. The sun sets behind the Avenue de la Grande Armée side, so the Champs-Élysées face goes into shade first and the west face holds the last warm light. Blue hour is when the floodlights come on and the traffic turns into light trails, with about 30 minutes of good sky after sunset. Mornings are quieter and light the Champs-Élysées face.
Twelve avenues feed one roundabout with no lane markings, so stay on the pavements and use the underpass. Watching pedestrians attempt the crossing is entertaining until it isn’t. The crowd concentrates on the Champs-Élysées corner; the south-east side, between Avenue d’Iéna and Avenue Marceau, is quieter and has room for a tripod. Keep gear close after dark; it is a busy tourist spot.
The rooftop terrace is ticketed and gives the famous view straight down the Champs-Élysées, with the Eiffel Tower to the south-west. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier lies under the arch, and the flame is rekindled every evening at 18:30, which is worth timing a visit around. Each face has different sculpture, so walk the full circle before you settle on one.
